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The best way to ascertain the capacitance value is to start with around 20 to 30uF and the Variac set to zero, so it is not introducing any inductance into the circuit at this stage. You then need to slowly increase the Variac and at the same time monitor the voltage across the motor looking for a rise. You only really need to have up to a maximum of a 10 volt rise at some point after which the voltage should then drop down again as you further increase the Variac. You need to go slowly though as it is all to easy to get a potentially damaging 30 volt rise or greater if your capacitance value is too large to start with. My 0.5Hp motor actually uses a 15v rise without suffering however. If you find you get no rise at all you will need more capacitance. Too much voltage rise means the capacitance value is too large. With both my motors I found steps of around 5 uF in value can make quiet a difference - but other motors may differ. You often find that even with a capacitance value which is correct (i.e. giving a modest 5 or 6 volt rise) that as you approach maximum inductance on the Variac's scale the motor will loose sync'. But as long as you have around 60 to 70 degrees of electrical phase adjustment for a 100bps or 40 to 50 degrees for a 200bps you will probably find that is sufficient to operate with initially. After initial setting up you can then move the rotor's position on the shaft so it is very near its optimum position prior to starting. Trying to start the motor with some phase adjustment already 'dialled in' can make it draw a high starting current and also cause a slow run-up to normal speed. I then found that when you switch the power off to the SRSG it exhibits a severe 'self braking' effect, where you can actually hear the motor noise being rapidly de-accelerated. This is caused by the phasing circuit and can, I would imagine, damage the motor over time. I found a multiple switch that disconnects both the mains feed to the controller and the feed to the motor at the same time solves this. However you must have some bleed resistors across the capacitors though if you use this method. Otherwise the exposed metal pins of the plug will have the capacitor's stored voltage across them. On one occasion I pulled my phase controller's mains plug out and laid it onto the metal work-top and there was an almighty "crack" as 124 uF charged to 250v discharged itself into the bench! Also don't run the circuit with the motor disconnected either, unless you want some smoke from your Variac. That is the reason for the fuse in series with the capacitor.
You cannot of course allow for the fact that in reality the voltage on the stationary electrode will have the tendency to jump to the approaching electrode before the terminals have actually aligned themselves. This is even more evident if you start the coil at half input voltage on the variac, tune the phase control, and then increase to full voltage. The ideal phase position at half voltage will not most likely be suited for full voltage. On my first SRSG, a 1500 rpm 200 bps example, this was very evident, and needed carefully monitoring. My later 3000rpm 200 bps SRSG I now use is no where near as critical in this area for some reason. Variac If your variac is wired up for everyday use (plug on main input going to top and bottom of inductor, 'live' or 'hot' to the top and neutral to the bottom) it is still possible to use it quiet easily without having to open it up and re-wire it. Just use the normal output of the variac as shown in the circuit below. If you do this be sure to insulate the pins on the now unused inlet plug of the Variac, as they will become live during operation. ![]() ![]() The oscilloscope trace in the video below is the trigger pulses from a photo electric cell that replaces one of the fixed electrodes. This is being triggered by the revolving electrodes as would happen normally when the gap fires. The reference AC sine wave also shown is from a 10v AC supply connected to the second channel. At the start of the video the motor is an unmodified (non salient pole working) ASRG. You can see that the trigger pulse is never in the same place on the AC sine wave. The motor is then shown modified to salient pole working but with no phase control. Now the trigger pulse stays fixed in respect to the AC sine wave, but it's actual position on that wave is dependant on where the rotor is positioned on the motor's shaft. Lastly you see the motor now with phase control. You can see how you can move the firing point to anywhere you want to on the AC sine wave. SRSG's can be very useful when you get the motor and phasing sorted out, but can sometimes be a painful journey in the process. Despite personally liking the simplicity of a blown static gap, to get the best result from a larger coil though, I have found (reluctantly) that they are the way to go. They not only handle large amounts of power well, but have advantages in areas that at first are not apparent, as Gary Lau, a respected American coiler, states in a TCML post from Dec 2004: Static gaps have widely-varying bang-sizes that are as chaotic in magnitude as in timing (a little known fact!), so one is forced to reduce the coupling so that the largest, infrequent bangs do not cause racing sparks. Since SRSG bangs are all the same size, the coupling may be adjusted so they are all just below racing spark threshold. |
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